How Do You Train Hop Vines for Maximum Yield?
If you're growing hops, you probably know that these fast-growing plants can reach up to 20 feet tall in just a few months. But did you know that proper training is the key to maximising your hop yield?
Training hop vines (also called "bines") helps them climb efficiently, receive optimal sunlight, and produce more flowers (cones)—which are the essential ingredient in brewing beer. Without training, hop plants can become a tangled mess, leading to poor air circulation, disease, and reduced harvests.
Understanding Hop Growth Patterns
Before you start training hops, it’s important to understand how they grow.
- Hops are bines, not vines—unlike vines that use tendrils or suckers, hop bines climb by twisting around a support in a specific direction.
- They grow fast—some hop varieties can grow up to a foot per day in peak season.
- They follow the sun—hop bines grow in a clockwise direction around their support to maximise sunlight exposure.
- They require vertical space—the taller the plant, the higher the yield. Most commercial hop farms use trellises at least 15-20 feet tall.
Understanding these basics will help you train your hops effectively.
Choosing the Right Support System
Hops need a strong support system because they become heavy as they grow. Here are the best options:
1. Trellises (Best for Commercial Growing)
- Tall 15-20-foot poles with twine strung between them.
- Allows hops to climb naturally and get maximum sunlight.
- Best for large-scale hop farms.
2. Individual Poles (For Small Gardens)
- A single pole (10-15 feet tall) with strings for the vines to climb.
- Works well for home growers with limited space.
3. Horizontal Supports (For Backyard Growers)
- If you can’t go vertical, train hops on a horizontal wire or fence.
- Less yield than vertical trellises but still effective.
The type of support you choose will depend on your space, budget, and how many hops you plan to grow.
When to Start Training Hop Vines
Timing is crucial! If you start too early, your bones may not be strong enough. If you wait too long, they become tangled.
- Start training hops in late spring (April-May), when bines are about 1-2 feet tall.
- Choose 3-4 of the healthiest shoots per plant and remove the rest.
- Twist them clockwise (important!) around the twine or trellis.
Hops naturally want to climb, so once you get them started, they’ll take over from there!
Step-by-Step Guide to Training Hop Vines
1. Selecting the Strongest Vines
- Choose 3-4 strong vines per plant and prune the rest.
- Removing extra shoots ensures all energy goes into quality growth.
2. Wrapping the Bines Correctly
- Gently wrap the vines clockwise around the support.
- Avoid wrapping too tightly—allow room for expansion.
3. Securing the Bines (If Necessary)
- If a vine keeps falling off, you can loosely tie it to the string with soft garden twine.
4. Regular Adjustments
- Check your hop plants every few days. If any vines fall off, gently guide them back up.
By mid-summer, your hops should be tall, strong, and thriving!
Pruning and Thinning for Better Growth
Hops need airflow to prevent diseases like powdery mildew. Regular pruning helps with this.
- The bottom 2-3 feet of foliage should be removed to improve airflow and reduce disease risk.
- Remove side shoots that are not producing cones.
- Do a final pruning in July to focus energy on cone production.
A little maintenance goes a long way in boosting your yield!
Proper Watering and Nutrient Management
Hops are thirsty plants, but too much water can cause root rot.
Watering Guidelines:
- Provide 1.5 inches of water per week.
- Avoid watering leaves—use drip irrigation or water at the base.
Best Fertilisers for Hops:
- Nitrogen (N): Helps early growth (use in spring).
- Phosphorus (P) & Potassium (K): Boosts cone production (use in summer).
- Organic options: compost, fish emulsion, or manure tea.
If your hops are turning yellow or stunted, they might need extra nutrients.
Managing Pests and Diseases
Common Hop Pests:
- Aphids—Cause sticky residue and weaken plants.
- Spider mites—tiny bugs that cause yellow spots.
- Japanese beetles—Eat hop leaves aggressively.
✅ Control methods: Neem oil, insecticidal soap, or introducing ladybirds.
Common Diseases:
- Powdery mildew—White spots on leaves.
- Downy mildew—Yellow patches and wilting.
✅ Prevention: Good airflow, pruning, and organic fungicides.
Troubleshooting Common Training Issues
❌ Bines keep falling off the trellis.
✅ Re-wrap them loosely and secure with twine if needed.
❌ Plants are growing slowly.
✅ Check for nutrient deficiencies and increase sunlight exposure.
❌ Leaves turning yellow
✅ Could be overwatering or lack of nitrogen—adjust accordingly.
Fixing these issues early ensures healthy, productive hops!
Maximising Yield Through Proper Harvest Timing
The moment of truth—harvesting your hops!
Signs That Hops Are Ready to Harvest:
- Cones feel dry and papery.
- Aromatic oils are strong when crushed.
- Cone scales start to separate slightly.
Best time to harvest: Late August to early September.
Cut hops at the bine base, dry them in a well-ventilated area, and store them properly for the best brewing results!
Conclusion
Training hop vines properly can make a huge difference in your final yield. By following these steps—choosing a strong support system, training vines correctly, pruning regularly, and managing pests—you’ll maximise your harvest and enjoy healthy, high-quality hops.
Whether you’re a home brewer or a commercial grower, the key is patience, consistency, and care. Keep refining your techniques, and you’ll be rewarded with bigger yields and better hops every season!
FAQs
How often should I train my hop bines?
Check them every few days and adjust as needed.
Can I grow hops without a trellis?
Yes! You can use poles, fences, or even horizontal wires.
How long do hop plants live?
Hop plants are perennials and can live 15-25 years with proper care.
Do all hop varieties need the same training?
Most varieties follow the same training rules, but some grow taller than others.
Can I grow hops in containers?
Yes, but use a large (20+ gallon) pot and provide sturdy support.